As smooth as silicone

by Pat Churchill on February 19, 2013

I’m not usually given to endorsing products but one of my best kitchen finds in recent times is the Wiltshire Bend’n’Bake silicone bakeware pack containing six cupcake moulds.

While I am not into cupcakes, I often whip up a batch of muffins and freeze half of them for later use.  However, my “non-stick” muffin pans frequently stick, even when liberally greased and the paper muffin pan liners, even when sprayed with oil, also stick to the muffins and are very difficult to peel off. No point in baking then having to throw out liners with a fair slab of muffin still attached. Besides, the finished muffins look a mess.

I once owned a silicone muffin pan but I thought it was too floppy to put in and out of the oven without risking spillage or burns. However, in more recent times, these have been made with a rigid frame and I was on a mission to buy one when I came across the individual silicone cupcake moulds and bought a six-pack to give them a try.

They worked like a charm. I now have two dozen and can continue using my muffin pans without fear of the dough sticking to anything.

They cook evenly and the muffins spill out easily onto the cake rack. A real test were the little crustless mini quiches I make for The Spouse’s breakfasts. These are made from spinach, cheese, onion, eggs, capsicum and random other ingredients, like mushrooms or asparagus – depending on what’s in the vegetable bin

I freeze them and he can heat up a couple in the microwave for a quick start to the day. However, I was getting a little bit irritated with his constant whining about them sticking to the paper liners. No more. The new moulds work a treat and there’s no wastage – or moaning.

They sell at around $6.95 per pack of six. I’ve used them as stand-alone moulds and they work OK, although I prefer to put them in the old muffin pans.

Being silicone, they don’t need much washing. In fact, they can be put in the top shelf of the dishwasher. There are also mini-muffin versions, perfect for little cocktail bites. They’re available from kitchenware stores and supermarkets.

Here’s the recipe for the muffins pictured. A couple of these make a nourishing little breakfast.

The recipe contains buttermilk. If you don’t have any on hand just add a 1 1/2 tablespoons of white vinegar or lemon juice to low fat milk and let it stand for a few minutes to curdle. The baking soda reacts with the acid in the buttermilk or soured milk and causes the muffins to rise. Because it starts working as soon as the two are mixed, the batter should be baked immediately.

Oat muffins

1 1/2 cups wholemeal flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon dried mixed herbs
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons fried shallots (available from Asian food stores)
1 cup grated reduced fat cheese
3/4 cup old fashioned rolled oats
1 cup buttermilk
1 large egg, lightly beaten4 tablespoons rice bran oil or grapeseed oil

Preheat the oven to 180C. Spray a 12-compartment muffin pan with oil or line them with silicone patty pans and spray these.

Put the rolled oats in a small bowl and pour on half the buttermilk and set aside for 10 minutes to soften.

Place the wholemeal flour in a large bowl with the baking soda, salt, herbs and cayenne, fried shallots and cheese.

Add the egg and oil to the remaining buttermilk, whisk together then stir into the flour mix along with the soaked oat mixture. Do not overmix.

Spoon evenly into the prepared pan and bake for 20-25 minutes until an inserted toothpick emerges clean. Turn onto a cake rack to cool.

If you’re planning to use these for quick breakfasts or snacks, pack into freezer bags when cool and freeze. Zap on high in the microwave for about 50 seconds to defrost and reheat two muffins.

 

 

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Eating with our eyes

by Pat Churchill on January 27, 2013

As an avid cookbook reader, reviewer and collector, I have witnessed amazing fashion swings in the styling , presentation and photographing of food over the past few decades. Once photos were crammed with table settings, candles, sprinklings of petals, glasses of sherry, kitchen utensils. Sometimes it was hard to find the actual food. In recent times they’ve become a bit more minimalist, leaving the food to speak for itself.

Recently I have been going through some of the vintage cookbooks I’ve collected. Early ones, of course, had no illustrations. Gradually, with advances in the printing world, some appeared with line drawings. Later there were coloured plates interspersed among the printed recipe pages.

Imagine the effort required to make Mrs Beeton’s Milanese timbale in the centre.

I have an 1870 edition of Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household Management (first published in 1861.) Isabella Beeton had passed away in 1865 but this new edition includes a note penned by her husband and publisher, S O Beeton, who said only the slightest alterations and corrections were needed. This edition includes not only numerous black line drawings, but also 12 coloured engravings. Some of these dishes are veritable monuments.

Apples a la Parisienne might have been created by a 19th century Adriano Zumbo

Even with the development of photography in the 19th century, it was a long while before photos of finished dishes were included. However, these served mainly to satisfy the reader’s curiosity about how the finished dish might look rather than encourage replication in the kitchen.

Eventually coloured photographs were introduced. However, looking at some of these early efforts, it’s apparent what a hit and miss business food photography was in those days. Food styling was non-existent. Printing vagaries often led to bizarre colours in the printed book.


One of the sadder examples I came across during the week was the 1948 book, Cooking the Modern Way! – the exclamation mark is the publisher’s which was a firm in the cooking oil business.

They promised 129 ways to better meals, home-tested and proved “each using a secret of famous chefs.” Famous anonymous chefs, it would seem – not a moniker in sight.

The sad part was the photos. I realised I was spending an inordinate amount of time trying to match them up with recipes in the book. Alas, some truly defeated identification.

I did my best to identify this one. I suspect it could be minted pear salad.

Obviously a moulded jelly salad, studded with a few peas. No recipe, however.

Waffles. The recipe suggests various toppings, but I guess the cupboard was bare

Food photographed for cookbooks and magazines is sometimes doctored to the point where it is no longer edible. There are lots of tricks of the trade that make dishes look gorgeous but destroy the food. But these 1948 photos were undoctored truthful representations where the food started off looking inedible – and remained that way.

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Pigs might fly

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High tea in Hong Kong

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